OK- This is the Final Post on Antarctica

If you haven't caught on, I am having a hard time letting go of Antarctica.  I think this should be the last post on the subject.  I have some cool things to write regarding my hike in Patagonia but haven't felt ready to write them down. 

Photo Contest
On board of the Orlova, one of the passengers organized a photo contest that each of us was invited to put forward their favorite photos that they had taken on the trip.  The winner of the contest is my friend, Beth King.  Her and her husband, Keith, were part of the LA contingency that I hung out with during the last part of the trip.  The also restocked me with many travel items they had in their packs. A welcome practice that the long term traveler enjoys when it happens.

I have shared a few of her pictures in my "marathon" and "marathon friends" slide shows but I wanted to share with you the winning entry of the photo contest.

The winning entry of the Orlova photo contest by Beth King

Book Review

As part of seminars on the Orlova, we were provided with sessions on the history Antarctic exploration.  The expeditions and exploits of Robert Falcon Scott, Roald Amundsen, Ernest Shackleton were provided to us by the ship's historian.  A listing of books were provided for us if we were interested in reading more about these explorers.  The one I picked up after we got off the ship was Sir Ranulph Fiennes, RACE TO THE POLE: TRAGEDY, HEROISM, AND SCOTT'S ANTARCTIC QUEST. 

The book was an enthralling read and well documented using mostly the first hand diaries and letters of the men who were involved with the expedition.  Fiennes attempts to discredit the many recent scholarly detractors of Captain Scott.  I will tell you at the end to second to last chapter as I read Scott's dying words of his last letters, I had tears come to my eye.  Fiennes had done such a good job creating the background and made me feel connected to the man that I actually was moved by a non-fiction book.  Needless to say that if you are a fan of explorers, Antarctica, and the pure determination of man wanting to conquer the unknown, this book is for you.  I highly recommend it.

Antarctica Final Reflections (Part 3)

The People
As you can imagine, the type of people who were on our cruise were an eclectic, well-traveled group of characters with great stories.  For crying out loud, they signed up to run a marathon on Antarctica.  Why wouldn’t they be?

Rob, a father of two young girls, joined Patrick and me in our triple room that was no bigger than a walk-in closet with bunk beds.  Room 409 turned into a thirty-something dorm room as the three of us reverted to sophomoric jokes, late night bar sessions (only after the marathon) and the quoting of Monty Python movies. 

“She turned me into a newt!”

“A newt?”

“I got better”

During the meals for the first four days, I moved around to different groups so I could meet more people.  By the end of the trip, I was adopted by the Los Angeles contingency and shared my meals with them.

I was surprised by how well traveled this group of runners were.  Many had not only been to places on my worldlist but actually ran a marathon there.  Machu Piccu, Mount Kilimanjaro, The Great Wall of China, Easter Island.  I was in awe.  These were my people (minus the running part!)

The hard-core runners exchanged war stories about their previous races.

“What was your time at Boston?”

“Remember the year it hailed during the New York marathon?”

The South Africans were regaling us with the stories of the Comrades Marathon, which actually is longer than two marathons combined (about 55 miles).  They don’t believe you are a “real” runner until you finish your first Comrades.  A group on our boat, including Patrick, made the commitment to make the trip in May of 2010.  My only commitment to our South African contingent was that I would be there the following month in 2010 to drink with them during World Cup futbol (for the American readers-soccer) matches, which they were hosting for the first time.

I was always impressed with the fact that Patrick had run seven marathons but after two weeks with these runners, I was ashamed of Patrick.  One woman about to turn sixty had run 73 marathons in ten years.  There were three people on our ship who were contending with Guinness Book of World Records including two women who were trying run seven marathons on seven continents in less than seven weeks.

Though no one cared, I found myself often saying, “ I am not a runner- I am just doing the half marathon.”  Running a marathon takes great discipline and I have great respect for those that can do it.  Though I have been content running my half marathons over the past few years, the running enthusiasm of the boat has piqued my interest in training for a full marathon after the journey is over.

Overall, I met some great people on the trip.  It is hard to say who one will stay connected with after an adventure like this but I am hopeful there will be a few.  I put together a slides how of some of the people I hung out with during my time on the Orlova.  Enjoy.

Antarctica Final Reflections (Part 2)

The Drake Passage
I wouldn’t do justice to the Antarctica blog if I didn’t mention the Drake Passage.  I was warned by the handful of people that I know that have gone to Antarctica to be wary of the Drake Passage.   Each of them had severe cases of seasickness.  They each counseled that I should take some over the counter drug to combat the seasickness.

When we got to Buenos Aires and met up with the Marathon group Patrick and I connected up with two guys from the San Diego area, Brendan, an ER doc, and Clyde, a paramedic.  One night we got on the conversation of whether seasickness was psychosomatic and if medication was really useful.  After the conversation, I decided that I would do Antarctica without medication.

To get to Antarctica your ship usually takes two days to get through the Drake Passage and two days to get back to South America.  The staff of the Orlova told us stories of how their first run to Antarctica was so bad that the passengers were confined to their rooms and all ship activities including meals were canceled for a day and a half.  Passengers were given water and crackers and told to stay in bed as the boat crashed from wave to wave. 

The travel gods were smiling down on us as we had a fairly easy going of the Drake Passage on the way to Antarctica.  The staff called it a one on a ten-point scale.  Though the ship rocked from side to side, it didn’t have an impact on me.  Most people had patches on and seemed to be doing fine.  Only about a dozen of the hundred plus passengers were severely impacted with seasickness and couldn’t make it to meals.

My cabin mate, Rob, lamented that we didn’t get the full experience because the seas were not rough and that he hoped it would be rougher on the way back through the Drake Passage.  As you can imagine, the travel gods don’t like to be mocked and Rob got his wish. 

It was comical at breakfast the first day of the return on the Drake because only half of the people had made it down. Every once in a while you would see someone shoot up and make a dash to the bathrooms.  I even saw one of the staff find a wastepaper basket because the bathroom was too far away.  And yes my cabin mate, Rob was confined to our room and he eventually christened our toilet with his breakfast. Even I began to feel nauseas and took a few naps to combat the feeling though I remained drug free.  It could have been worse because regardless of how most of the people felt, the staff only called the return a four out of ten.

Rob learned a valuable lesson that day- DON"T TAUNT THE TRAVEL GODS.

Antarctica Final Reflections (Part 1)

I have received a number of e-mails asking me if the ½ marathon was the highlight of the trip or at least of my Antarctica experience.  Though it was the reason for us coming to this part of the world, I can safely say that it will be a great story but does not compare to the beauty and intensity that I found in the rest of my Antarctica experience.

I have tried to share through the pictures and video in my previous posts the incredible visuals that is Antarctica.  A combination of the isolation and incredible wildlife makes this the most memorable place of all my travels in my entire life.  I have been blessed to travel to over 35 different countries but Antarctica is a special place.  It is hard to put it into words.

If Patrick had not wanted to do the marathon I am quite sure that I might never have stepped foot on Antarctica. The experience will be the most expensive two weeks of the entire sixteen-month journey.  Since we had been planning to run the race regardless if the Singh Around the World Tour was to happen, I started saving the money for this adventure over two years ago and it became part of the budget for the world tour. 

Gentle Reader- I tell you this because I feel I was pulled here by the grace of the travel gods.  It was never on my worldlist.  It wasn’t something I ever thought I would be excited to see.   If there is ever a place that I would recommend that you travel to-- it is Antarctica.  It will be the best travel investment you can make.  It is expensive but you will never regret it.  I PROMISE YOU.

The Orlova
Our Antarctica Marathon group had contracted with Quark Expeditions for the ten-day cruise that was part of our marathon package.  Patrick and I were placed on the ship, Lyubov Orlova.  The Orlova is a refurbished Russian research vessel that has been converted to hold 120 passengers and a 40-person crew.

One of the cool things about our expedition and perhaps it is the same on all Antarctica excursions that there was a strong educational component.  The Quark Expedition staff had areas of expertise that they would share throughout the ten days.  The staff included a geologist, historian and an ornithologist.  There were seminars on the history of Antarctic exploration, birds of Antarctica, wildlife of Antarctica, global warming, and the geology of Antarctica.  It was evident that the staff cared deeply about Antarctica and was very concerned about the environment’s impact on the area.

We had the opportunity to go on ten different excursions to explore Antarctica and the islands around it.  Antarctica because of the treaty that was signed by over 80 different countries has a strict set of rules regarding the tourism of Antarctica.  Each of the tour operators has to be given a permit and must follow these rules.  One of the key rules is that there can never be more than 100 people on land at a certain location at one time.  It often meant that we would take a phased approach to our excursions.  Some groups would go on a zodiac cruises of icebergs while the other group would be on land.  Each zodiac took about twelve people and when touring icebergs gave us a great views that we wouldn’t have had if we were on the Orlova.

We had the opportunity to see five different types of penguins. We saw twenty different types of birds, including Albatross, Petrels, Skuas and Sheathbills.   One of the highlights was when two Minke Whales played around our zodiacs for twenty minutes.  The whales were no more than twenty feet away from us and would swim under our boats.  An incredible experience. 

It is possible to take a regular cruise ship, one that houses 3000 people and has all of the amenities that one could ever want.  I would recommend taking the smaller ship because it will give you a more intimate experience.  You are going to the most isolated place in the world.  Trust me you don’t want to be sharing that with 3000 people. Also the smaller expeditions will allow you more opportunities to see things and learn about the area.

Another Small World Experience
I was on the boat for no more then ten minutes when one of the workers, Jessica, came up to me and asked, “Mayor Singh, is that you?”  My first reaction was that one of my fellow runners who recently found out I was a former Mayor had put this young woman up to calling me out.

As we talked she mentioned that she recently graduated from Michigan State University and took a job on the Orlova because her fiancé was the ship’s ornithologist.  Then it slowly came back to me, we met the previous spring.  Jessica and her friend, Molly, had organized a rally on campus called Step It Up.  The rally was to bring awareness to global warming issues and serve as an educational tool for citizens on what they can do to limit their carbon footprint.  I was so impressed by Jessica and her co-organizer, Molly, that I invited them to speak at the press conference where I signed East Lansing’s commitment to the Kyoto Protocols.  Global warming is an issue that has been largely ignored by the Federal government and I was pleased to join 500 other Mayors across the country to try to change our community’s impact on the environment.   

For more information on the rally Jessica organized go to the following links:

http://www.statenews.com/index.php/article/2007/04/msu_joins_rally_against#

http://events.stepitup2007.org/april/events/show/769

Run, Sammy, Run!!! My 1/2 Marathon Run

Well you have been clamoring for it for a while.  Thank you for your patience. Let's start off with the video first.  I know some of the gentle readers of "Singh Around the World" like the pretty pictures more than the words.

I woke up the morning of the half marathon with a great level of energy and enthusiasm.  It was here.  I was going to really do it-run a half marathon on Antarctica!

I was as ready as I could be.  Training on the road is difficult but I did get some good training runs in.  I actually went on more runs than Patrick.  In reality, I needed those runs to get ready while Patrick could stay back because he was already in marathon form.   

There were 40 runners in the half marathon and about 150 in the full marathon.  There were runners from 17 different countries with a group of 15 runners who after this race would be completing a marathon on every continent. 

There were some who were fiercely competitive but the majority of the group wanted to enjoy the run and take everything in.  We were told to add 20 minutes to each hour we usually take to run our race because of the conditions of the course.  I can run a half in 2 hours and 30 minutes. Not a great time for most runners but for a guy who doesn’t run much-- I am happy with it. That meant I had an extra fifty minutes, which luckily I didn’t need.

I was surprised that the weather was not as cold as it could have been.  It was about 36 degrees Fahrenheit. It was summer in the Antarctic but I thought it would be colder.  Ahhh, global warming.  Actually, it was colder in Michigan on race day.

It was drizzling and the course was going to be muddy.  The wind was steady and the wind chill made it feel colder.  I had enough layers on so I knew I was going to be fine.  I forget the name of the young guy who outfitted me from Playmakers in Okemos but he did a great job. We stop this blog for an unpaid endorsement--For those who live in the East Lansing area, I can’t speak more highly about Playmakers.  Please support them if you are a runner.

I was armed with my video camera, Sr. Mini Loco and the Spartan flag.  The race started shortly after 9:00 am.  The first two miles were hilly and lead us from the Russian research base to the Uruguayan research base.  Then we reached the beach, which was rocky and full of potential ankle twisting injuries.  Luckily, many of my runs in Central America and in Nigeria were on uneven surfaces so my ankles were stronger than usual and I didn’t have any problems.

Then it came.  Collins Glacier.  I was Superman and it was Kryptonite. I was Richard Nixon and it was my Washington Post.  I was Britney Spears and it was common sense.  I was President Bush and it was –oh you get the point.  The Glacier portion of the run was only 1.5 miles (.75 up and .75 down) with a steep ascent.  We were warned about the Glacier and how difficult it would be.  It wasn’t until I got to it did I understand.

Because of the weather, the glacier was melting and it made the whole route wet and icy. I fell four times on the way down.  At one point after I fell, I just sat there slowly being soaked with a feeling of extreme frustration because I actually wondered if I was going to be able to get down. One of the falls put my video camera on the blink but it eventually began to work the next day after it dried out.

It was the first time I can remember wanting to be shorter because those with a lower center of gravity were having an easier time than this lanky uncoordinated clod. It took me 50 minutes to finish the 1.5 miles.  When all was said and done, the Glacier caused one concussion, a broken hip, a few sprained wrists and a number of bruised bodies and a few bruised egos.   At least ten people I know, only finished the half marathon though they were signed up for the full because they didn’t want to run the glacier again.  Mentally it beat them.  I don’t blame them.

The rest of the run for me was enjoyable.  Even though my running shoes were soaked, I ran at a good clip.  If this were a normal course or the Detroit Free Press route I would have run my best time.  At the end, when my energy was running low I was given a great motivation by seeing the lead runner, Robert from Poland (who eventually set the course record) run by me.  Because of the way the course was laid out, I was at mile 11 and he was at mile 22.  I did not want to be lapped in my half marathon run by a guy running the full marathon.  It was the motivation I needed to finish a little bit after three hours and before Robert so I wouldn’t be lapped.

Though I am proud of my run and most people I know will never run this race, it will go down in lore because of this young lad from England.  Edward Goodison of Sheffield, UK.

He is ten years old and decided to join his father on the ½ marathon as a last minute addition.  He actually finished the course about thirty minutes ahead of me.  Later on the trip, I was playing cards with him and his family when I won a hand and with my maturity in my back pocket I stood up and I taunted him. 

Without missing a beat, he looked at me and said in a measured tone, “At least I beat you during the race.”  Needless to say I sat back down.  I was put into my place.  Well played, son.  Well played.

I was so glad that my friends weren’t here to have witnessed this dressing down by a ten year old because I wouldn’t have been able to live this one down.

Gentle reader-there is a few things you need to know about my friends if you are not part of that circle.  Over the years, I have collected an incredible cast of characters that I consider my friends.  Some are from grade school and high school.  Another group is from the dorms and my fraternity at Michigan State University.  Another group I have met through my travels.  The rest are friends of those friends.  I can truly say that I am blessed to have them in my circle and I consider them part of my family.   

Though the group is diverse and spread out over the country and the world, they share some common characteristics.  Professionally they are successful, they have the love of travel and they are fiercely loyal to me.  Many of them follow the adage of “work hard, play hard.”  And when they play, they can have a good time. Luckily there is no such thing as too much fun.  At least that is what I keep telling myself.

Most of them also practice the art of what we call “tough love”.  “Tough love” is not for the weak hearted.  You need to have a strong sense of self-esteem and worth to hang with this group.  On any given day you could be the target of jokes and ridiculed with good and sometimes bad natured ribbing.  If there is a line most of the time these guys will step over it.  I have enjoyed years of being brought to tears from laughter because of it.

An example- when I was elected as Mayor Pro Tem (vice mayor) at the age of 24, I received my congratulations for the first week and then it was followed by years of being called the Mayor’s errand boy.  Perhaps they used more colorful language but you get the point.

“Hey Sam- we want to go out.  Can you join us or do you have to pick up Jester’s (former mayor’s) dry cleaning?”

Success never went to our heads because our friends quickly reminded us of where we came from.  Tough love. You have to love them for it. 

Gentle reader, I know that was a long segue to get to the point.

By the time I came to land and the world of technology, I was getting congratulation notes from my friends that included being mocked because I lost to a ten year old by 30 minutes in the half marathon.  Yes- Patrick had e-mailed everyone to let them know the highlights of the run and though he came in eighth overall the highlight for him was the ten year old who kicked my ass.  Tough love.  I am glad that I caught up to and passed the woman who was running the race in crutches because they would have had a field day with that one.  Tough love. 

More Questions for Sam

1.  What is the stupidest thing you have done so far?

As one could imagine, the list could be long but during our trip to Antarctica we we hit a grand level when we did the polar plunge.  Luckily the water was 2 degrees celsius.   

Every Picture Tells A Story

Dear Gentle Reader,

Happy St. Patrick's Day!!!

I am currently on the third leg of a four day hike in Torres Del Paine (Patagonia.) With the beauty of postdating you are getting this wonderful post.  I did not get much time nor space on the bus to do any writing so I made a slide show to help you understand the incredible experience that I had.  I will have a series of posts including my experience during the half marathon that will hit at the end of the week.

Here you go----

Another Bite on Antarctica

Dear Gentle Reader,

I am still on the way to the world without internet so posts will be limited.  Here is another incredible video that my cabin mate and I worked on while we were on the boat.  It was one of those "being in the right place-at the right time" moments.  I guess the penguin would say otherwise.

Here it is...

A Taste of Antarctica

Dear Gentle Reader,

I am finally back on land from my incredible adventure to Antarctica.  It was a moving experience for me and I am looking forward to sharing it with you.  Unfortunately I will be heading to Torres Del Paine to go hiking and won't have access to the internet for another week.  From what I am told Patagonia is one of the most beautiful places in the world.  I will try to get a few posts done before we head out.

Enjoy this video for the time being.

Small World Experience- Meeting Mary Kramer in Ushuaia, Argentina

I have had a few of what I call small world experiences while on my journey over the past two months.  I mentioned in previous blogs how I bumped into a friend from the dorms at MSU in Antigua, Guatemala and how I sat next to a couple that I had tailgated with at the airport bar in Miami.

The most recent one happened in the small town of Ushuaia, Argentina.  Ushuaia is known as the end of the world as it is the port city for trips to Antarctica.  We were walking down the street and I looked over and saw a friend and colleague, Mary Kramer.  Mary is the publisher of Crain's Detroit Business News. She had served on the Michigan Nonprofit Association board when I first started working for the organization.  We also worked on a joint partnership with the website- www.michigannonprofit.com.

Mary had just finished her trip to Antarctica on the same boat that I was about to board for my half marathon.

Here is to another small world experience!